Runner up for the Best British Restaurant in London, Time Out Eating and Drinking Awards 2007: The Empress of India (also known locally as ‘the Empress’)
It’s great to see East London restaurants making a name for themselves. (Although I have to say I like them being a well-kept secret too)
I’ve been to the Empress only once, on a fantastically sunny summer afternoon. The place was crowded and because we had not booked ahead we had to be squeezed in. The wait staff was very helpful tracking down extra seats for our table.
The menu is straightforward and simple, but very desirable: I would have been happy ordering anything. I was going to order plaice but unfortunately they had run out, and the only other option was cod, which I generally stay away from. Instead, I ordered a truly stunning courgette flower risotto, with tempura-battered flowers. Perfectly cooked and creamy with just the right note of lemon running throughout. Chefs (even Italian ones – see ‘the Italian blog’ yesterday) often get risotto wrong – it takes care and patience.
For dessert, I ordered a rich (nearly too rich) chocolate pot, which I was happy to share around the table. The cheeseboard was surprisingly good and the quality undeniable, although the cheeses were a bit ‘too’ room temperature. Peach melba was our final dessert choice, and although we were hoping for a retro 1970’s dish, I was surprised (pleasantly) by now up-to-date its presentation and taste was.
The décor, with its deep, dark woods and dramatic chandeliers, feels indulgent, but the right side of indulgent, and matches the quality of food and essence of the eating experience you get. It’s not cheap, but it’s perfect for those days just after payday. I can’t wait to go back.
Empress of India, 130 Lauriston Rd, E9 7LH. Take the 277 bus from Mile End tube (Central Line) 020 8533 5123 www.theempressofindia.com
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