restaurant review: green and red

I shall preface my review by first saying that I am sceptical of any restaurant in the United Kingdom that purports to offer Mexican food. Generally what's served is a dodgy amalgamation of Tex-Mex cuisine (consisting of barbecue sauce, cheese and poor excuse for salsa). I've been disappointed many a time - Pacifico in Covent Garden and Cafe el Paso in Hoxton. Give me Old el Paso at home, I say.

But Green and Red, situated on Bethnal Green Road in Shoreditch, not far from Brick Lane, struck me as different, from both the external decor (very understated and very UNkitschy) and from the reviews. Apparently, the place's owners started it after a long period spent in Mexico actually studying the cuisine and its flavours. And the tequila of course.

Arriving at the restaurant on a Friday at 6:45 for a 7pm table, I happily settled in at the bar. The decor inside was again understated, warm and casual. The ethos of a back-room cantina floated around the place. After a glass of red wine (or a bottle of Dos Equis) and some chilli-roasted pumpkin seeds, I reach hopefully for the menu. Bar snacks abound - one could easily come in just for the bar food and the excellent selection of drinks. But the table calls.

The menu consists of starters (which can also be sides, and can also be shared), main courses (which can also be shared) accompanied by refried beans, tortillas and cabbage salad, and sides (which can also be starters).

What struck me first was the wholesome nature of the food - no heavy Cheddar cheese or sour cream in sight. Our starters were lightly-fried whitebait, fresh young goats cheese and an amazing broad bean, tomato, onion and cilantro salad, plus the house salsas (one green, one red), some of which we saved for our main courses.

The main courses were equally wholesome, with six options: pork, lamb, beef, chicken, fish and vegetable, each with a Jaliscan twist. My husband chose the pork option - which was in fact pork belly, ribs and crackling. I chose the vegetable option - roasted carrots, courgettes, chickpea, tomato and corn. These we dived into with gusto along with the refried beans, salsa and tortillas, amicably sharing our dishes. As I ate I had the sense of the authentic and the seasonal as well. Cabbage, carrots and courgettes are not thought of as Mexican ingredients, but they are humble and hearty, as is the cuisine. I'd happily trade for them over iceberg lettuce and bell peppers most days, though perhaps not at the tail end of summer.

By desserts we were slightly giddy, what with full bellies of proper food and mouth-watering flavours. We skipped the doughnuts dipped in chocolates,opting instead for coffees, though one came with a twist. It was a cold tequila chocolate coffee, which we chose partly out of incredulity at the prospect. Served simply in a margarita glass, the foamy result was complex, but so light, and so amazing. The tequila, so subtle, allowed the coffee and chocolate foam to lightly hold the tongue.

I think you get my drift. If not, in a nutshell, the meal was exquisite, though never presumptuous. Nor was it cheap - drinks, starters, mains, a couple sides,and coffees for 2 came in at a special-occasion £80. But I will go again, that much is for sure. Taco night at home - be scared, be very scared.

Green and Red, Bethnal Green Road, E1 6LA. Tel: 0207 749 9670

Thai'ed up

Tonight I'm meeting up with a few friends for drinks and dinner. Since it's THAT time of year (read: empty pockets), we're going to a little place in Soho that turns out good Thai food. There's not much to the service, and they don't let you sit for long, but it is mighty tasty. And cheap.

I know long before I step through the door what I'll be having. Pad thai. It's my favourite. With heavy doses of that lovely mouth-puckering chilli sauce that sits on every table.

I wonder: is it easy to cook pad thai at home? I consult the all-knowing beast that is the internet.

Stop 1: Wikipedia
Wiki kindly informs me that "there have evolved two types of pad thai": one that originates in Thailand is relatively dry and light, and one in the Western world that is covered in red oil. Okay, not actually that helpful. But it does spell out the ingredients, for those unfamiliar:

Rice noodles
Eggs
Fish sauce
Tamarind juice
Chilli
Crushed peanuts
Coriander/cilantro
And any combo of shrimp, chicken, tofu or bean sprouts

And now for a history lesson - pad thai first became popular in World War II, when the prime minister wanted to reduce the consumption of rice in Thailand. Evidently.

Stop 2: Epicurious

When in doubt, I stop here for a guide on how to make something. I don't always use the recipe verbatim. Instead, I often mix and match. They give me three options:

Pad thai noodles
Vegetarian pad thai
Coconut pad thai

I must say, I like the sound of coconut. But I'm straying off topic. I note happily that the first recipe doesn't sound too unhealthy, with 3 tbsp of vegetable oil and an egg the only fat-based ingredients for four servings. I wonder if this could be reduced even further.

Stop 3: You Tube
Should the idea of cooking the ultimate Thai takeaway still fill you with feelings of uncertainty, why not hit up YouTube for a tutorial:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyH4axkSTT0

I still can't decide whether I'll take this dish on at home or leave it to the humble kitchens of Tuk Tuk Thai in Soho. Given it's a cheap meal out at £5, I'll probably leave it to the professionals.

“seasonable” vegetable soup

Today I went to the Horse bar with a few work colleagues for a leaving lunch. The food there is generally quite good.

Checking the specials board, I spied “seasonable vegetable soup” and stopped to contemplate. Surely it didn’t mean that I could have a go at adding as much salt and pepper as I would like? I’m being pedantic I know – the word “seasonable” can mean timely, or appropriate.

But seasonal sounds so much better! But there were no references to the actual vegetables, so I enquired further. After the waitress consulted the chef, she returned: “Carrot and peppers”. Not exactly seasonal – but possibly seasonable, I suppose. I ordered it.

It was…not bad, though not great either. I had no real complaints. Plenty of salt and pepper already in there – perhaps seasoned vegetable soup would have been a better description?

restaurant review: Wild Honey

After hearing that this restaurant, tucked away in Mayfair, won Time Out’s best new restaurant in London this year, I was interested. Then I heard that the owners of this restaurant also won the award the year before. My interest was piqued. Once I read that prices were (fairly) reasonable, with wine available in 250ml carafes, I felt a need to try this place.

We booked four for the early sitting on Saturday night, which is also popular with theatregoers, given the restaurant’s close proximity to Oxford Circus and Piccadilly. Warm wooden walls and booths (though unfortunately we were not able to get one of them) lined the restaurant.

First impressions are important, and when the waiter offered us the menus – which are revamped daily – I couldn’t wait to dive in. Seasonal and local produce was offered throughout. For starters, we had the choice of:

Red mullet, warm vegetables a la greque
Salad of warm roast autum market vegetables
Soup of chestnut, sweet onion and wild mushrooms
Fried duck egg (Clarence Court), warm salad of pancetta and lentils, sherry vinegar dressing
Warm smoked eel, sweet and sour turnips, William pear puree
Braised shoulder of hare, soft polenta and parmesan
Terrine of foie gras, quince, hazelnuts

Feeling adventurous, I chose eel. I was handsomely rewarded – the soft, wood flavoured eel was almost bitter, but with a slice of turnip, and the sweet, juicy puree, the flavour turned itself completely inside out, and the final flavour in my mouth was an entirely different experience. Eel and pear, who would have thought?

My companions chose the duck egg (very local), with its enormous yolk, served in a shiny pan for an extra touch. Another also could not resist the call of the eel, and the fourth chose the braised hare, which looked extremely rich for my tastes, though he assured me the polenta (surprisingly light) and the tangy, almost acidic parmesan cut straight through the meat.

The main courses offered similar delights:

Market fish of the day (Icelandic cod, roast onion squash, glazed salsify
Roast piece of plaice, nut brown butter with shrimps
Roast Scottish beef (Buccleuch), baked onion, autumn vegetable puree
Saddle of venison, walnut and juniper berry crust, spinach beet, Jerusalem artichoke
Halibut, mushroom risotto, purple sprouting broccoli
Potato gnocchi, wild mushrooms, market vegetables

It is not often that I fancy every dish on the menu, but I did. With my adventurous streak continuing, I selected the venison, as I have been hearing more and more about this lean meat. Others selected the roast plaice and the beef, both recommended by our waiter.

The venison sat proudly on the plate, almost in the shape of a log of goats’ cheese with nuts sprinkled on top. The deep red, almost plum-coloured meat told a different story – one of succulence and sweetness, with just a crunch of nuttiness. The sweet softness of the braised root vegetable and buttery greens cleansed the palate for more. My only qualm – and that of my companions, as well – was that more vegetables would have been nice.

Wild Honey ice cream with crushed honeycomb, selection of cheeses (in which the diner is brought to a table and given a cheese history lesson), and treacle tart were our choices from a desirable list that also included crème brulee, floating island with custard, and chocolate soup.

I was extremely pleased with dinner at Wild Honey – it is refreshing to dine at a restaurant which offers seasonal, local, and generally healthy food. Sure, there’s a price tag (Time Out estimates that for two, with wine, the bill will reach £90), but for a special occasion, it tops my list. To leave a restaurant feeling satisfied, but not stuffed (or still hungry) or guilty of too many indulgences, is a rare thing indeed.

Wild Honey, 12 St. George’s St, London W1 0207 758 9160 www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk

east London restaurant wins runner up in Time Out's restaurant awards

Runner up for the Best British Restaurant in London, Time Out Eating and Drinking Awards 2007: The Empress of India (also known locally as ‘the Empress’)

It’s great to see East London restaurants making a name for themselves. (Although I have to say I like them being a well-kept secret too)

I’ve been to the Empress only once, on a fantastically sunny summer afternoon. The place was crowded and because we had not booked ahead we had to be squeezed in. The wait staff was very helpful tracking down extra seats for our table.

The menu is straightforward and simple, but very desirable: I would have been happy ordering anything. I was going to order plaice but unfortunately they had run out, and the only other option was cod, which I generally stay away from. Instead, I ordered a truly stunning courgette flower risotto, with tempura-battered flowers. Perfectly cooked and creamy with just the right note of lemon running throughout. Chefs (even Italian ones – see ‘the Italian blog’ yesterday) often get risotto wrong – it takes care and patience.

For dessert, I ordered a rich (nearly too rich) chocolate pot, which I was happy to share around the table. The cheeseboard was surprisingly good and the quality undeniable, although the cheeses were a bit ‘too’ room temperature. Peach melba was our final dessert choice, and although we were hoping for a retro 1970’s dish, I was surprised (pleasantly) by now up-to-date its presentation and taste was.

The décor, with its deep, dark woods and dramatic chandeliers, feels indulgent, but the right side of indulgent, and matches the quality of food and essence of the eating experience you get. It’s not cheap, but it’s perfect for those days just after payday. I can’t wait to go back.

Empress of India, 130 Lauriston Rd, E9 7LH. Take the 277 bus from Mile End tube (Central Line) 020 8533 5123 www.theempressofindia.com

restaurant review: Thai Garden

This humble little restaurant, nestled on Globe Road just off of the main thoroughfare through Bethnal Green, Roman Road , serves ‘vegetarian’ Thai, which it interprets as also including seafood. It won an award for best vegetarian meal from Time Out many years back in 1991, and although I can’t compare the quality now to the quality then, the restaurant consistently serves tasty, clean food.

With a policy of using only food that has not been genetically modified and without msg, Thai Garden delivers a large menu, divided into four sections: vegetarian appetizers, vegetarian main courses, seafood appetizers, and seafood main courses. These options include several curry variations and experiment with mock duck meat, tofu and bean curd.

For starter, I ordered the prawn dim sum, which was served with a healthy portion of cabbage radish and carrot and the requisite sticky sauce. They were extremely enjoyable, and my jealous dining companion eyed them greedily. He had ordered the skewers of barbecued seafood and vegetables, which was also served up with cabbage and carrot, as well as a Thai chilli sauce. By comparison, it was a bit boring, and the prawns were overcooked, which gave them a strange odour. The scallops escaped overcooking, as did the vegetables.

For the main course, I stuck with two dishes I’ve ordered before and enjoyed – the thai aubergine green curry and vegetarian phad thai. The Thai green curry (and I’m not exaggerating) is the best I’ve ever had – the Thai basil and aniseed permeated the fresh, light curry, and al dente green beans and carrots soaked the alternately hot, sweet and spicy flavours to perfection. The phad thai was a bit gooier than last time, but still close to excellent.

My companion ordered a mushroom-ginger-onion dish that was completely infused with ginger, which is not a bad thing, should ginger be your thing. Served with a stunning fragrant Thai jasmine rice, his dish was particularly sparkling. I admit to having helped myself to a few spoonfuls.

The service (generally just one woman) is excellent and attentive, and the small room of about 10 tables was kept quite busy, especially as it was only a Tuesday evening at 7:30 pm. The prices are reasonable – our appetizers were under £5, and our main courses around £6, though I essentially ordered two mains, as the phad thai was also about £5. Starters, main courses plus a rice or noodle dish, and a beer each cost us £38.50, including service (n the pricey side of reasonable). Definitely one to return to.

Thai Garden , 249 Globe Road , Bethnal Green, London , E2 0JD. 5 min walk from Bethnal Green tube. 2 min walk from the 8 bus. Takeaway and set lunch menu available. 0871 332 0197

restaurant review: Tas

Given the recent explosion in the popularity of mezze, Tas should be faring quite well. And considering that the restaurant, which opened eight years ago with locations in London Bridge and Waterloo, has expanded to nine sites, Tas is faring quite well indeed.

The reputation of the mezze genre may bring a few customers through the doors who wouldn't have ventured forth before, but Tas' food is good. One wonders whether it is places like this that have contributed in fact to the overall regard for mezze throughout London and other areas.

Though I've heard it called "dips for dinner", I don't quite agree. However, there is a lovely and friendly informality about this style of eating: it's almost like the pub of eating. No obligation to eat a large meal, yet no limits to how much you can order. It's undeniably similar to tapas, yet with a fresh, light and moreish quality about it.

On a quiet Monday evening in the Cut down by Southwark, we ordered one of the set menus. There were four to choose from, and we chose the predominantly vegetarian one, though there was one lamb and two shellfish dishes included too.

First, a proper tabbouleh, loaded to the brim with parsley. Great all on its own, it also helped to cleanse the palate between the tas, which are the traditional cooking pots used to cook casseroles. A lamb hummus quickly followed, though there was a bitterness to it that took a bit of getting used too. When I returned to have another go after the other dishes, however, the flavours tasted much more mellow.

Next, Zeytin yagli bakla – which Tas says is made of fresh broad beans, coriander, red and green peppers, dill, garlic and olive oil. It was absolutely wonderful – fresh and delightful. Then, Kasir – bulgur wheat (one of my favourites) with walnuts, tomato, herbs and spring onion.

The hot aubergine dish – Xeytin Yagli Patlican – was one of the stars. Roasted aubergine ostensibly then shredded and mizzed with tomato, garlic, peppers and chickpeas – was intense and earthy. I could have eaten more.

Another palate cleanser: the spinach and fresh yogurt.

Alongside the dazzling array of dishes were the nibbles – the obligatory yet tasty falafel, the pastry filled with spinach, fried calamari (I'm amazed how many cuisines claim calamari into their national repertoire), and midye tava, or fried mussels with garlic sauce. These were all nice, but unnecessary – although if I had to choose a favourite of these four (and only since it's September and they're in season), I'd choose the mussels.

I'd definitely recommend Tas to a friend – particularly if one was looking for a place down by the Southbank/the Cut area to eat. Tourists are minimal, prices are reasonable (the set meal was £9.90 per person), the food filling and fresh yet not overpowering, and the style of eating - the casual dating of the restaurant world – is fantastic.

Tas Restaurant, 33 The Cut, Waterloo, London SE1 8LF

www.tasrestaurant.com

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marsh ruby - a real gem of a curry

Tucked away on Lower Marsh, a local market street brimming with south-of-the-Thames flavour, sits Marsh Ruby. Run by two women, the shop serves 5 homemade curries a day, opening at noon and closing when the pots are empty.

This place, put simply, is brilliant. Though I am a tried-and-true proponent of the pack-up lunch (it's often healthier, cheaper and tastier), this is perhaps the one place that could make me change my ways.

All of the chicken is free-range, the lamb is English, and the vegetables are seasonal. Only fresh ingredients are used - and the only cooking fat in the curry is olive oil. They even make their own curry powders.

Each day, two chicken curries are on offer: one is usually creamy, with fresh plum tomatoes, and one is a more straightforward curry. Two vegetable curries are on the boards: my personal favourite is the butternut squash, carrot and potato, though the spinach and lentils are amazing as well. The customer has a choice of either white basmati rice or, at 60p more, its brown counterpart.

What I like most is their mix and match philosophy - you can combine two curries in one takeaway container - or, if you prefer, on your plate, should you eat in.

The owners/chefs ethical approach is extremely attractive. Wasting nothing, and encouraging reuse (5p off should you reuse your takeaway container), these women are on to some thing really special. Prices are reasonable - chicken curry in the larger size will run you about £4, whereas vegetables in the smaller size are just under £3.
Salad, yogurt and fresh chillies come with each plate.


They began as a stall in Leadenhall Market, but due to popular demand have set up shop in Lower Marsh. Only open at lunchtimes presently, they are considering evening hours.

Menus are posted weekly on the site: http://www.marshruby.com/

friday night on the southbank

On Friday evening, the London weather finally calmed down after a tumultuous, rainy week and the sun shone through the clouds. Rather than head home (lean mince defrosting in the fridge for burgers), we headed out for a stroll along the Southbank. Starting at Waterloo, passing the NFT, the Antony Gormley figures topping the Hayward Gallery, Waterloo Bridge and almost any other building the sight, we kept walking. Tate Modern, Globe Theatre, peppered with tantalising restaurants in between.

By the time we reached London Bridge, our mouths watering, a righthand glance as we prepared to pass Southwark Cathedral reminded us of a restaurant at Borough Market we had always wanted to try: Fish! Restaurant.

Serving, presumably, Billingsgate's finest, Fish! offers all seafood dishes, though at the bottom corner it reassures staunch carnivores and strict vegetarians that it offers one steak, one chicken and one vegetarian option.

Starters were rustic but inviting: a dressed crab with rustic bread and salad and warm octopus and borlotti bean salad. The more mundane fishcakes also listed.

Mains offered a good mix - fish and chips, swordfish club, dressed lobster. But most impressive was the long list of fresh fish available, either grilled or steamed, with a choice of sauces. Lemon sole, monkfish, sardines, John Dory, skate, salmon - there were only a few that weren't available that day.

Side dishes included mixed salad, mash, mushy peas - all reassuringly English, according to the menu.

Unfortunately, when it came to order, the warm octopus and borlotti bean salad was sold out. And when I tried to order skate, the server had to check whether they were out, which bode well for the taste and popularity of the dishes. Pete ordered the swordfish club with chunky chips.

Although it took nearly 40 minutes to arrive(!), the meals were excellent. The skate, grilled to a soft perfection, slid easily off of the scales onto my fork. Served a soft vegetable bed of sauteed fennel, celery, onion and carrot and a salsa verde (though I didn't end up using any of the sauce), this meal made an excellent, yet decadent healthy option. It was washed down with Fish!'s house white and we headed back to London Bridge to walk the rest of the way back to Hackney as the sun set around 9 pm.

calories: approximately 550
half of a bottle of white wine - 250 calories
125 g grilled skate - 100 calories
fennel, carrots, celery, onion and olive oil - 180 calories