restaurant review: green and red

I shall preface my review by first saying that I am sceptical of any restaurant in the United Kingdom that purports to offer Mexican food. Generally what's served is a dodgy amalgamation of Tex-Mex cuisine (consisting of barbecue sauce, cheese and poor excuse for salsa). I've been disappointed many a time - Pacifico in Covent Garden and Cafe el Paso in Hoxton. Give me Old el Paso at home, I say.

But Green and Red, situated on Bethnal Green Road in Shoreditch, not far from Brick Lane, struck me as different, from both the external decor (very understated and very UNkitschy) and from the reviews. Apparently, the place's owners started it after a long period spent in Mexico actually studying the cuisine and its flavours. And the tequila of course.

Arriving at the restaurant on a Friday at 6:45 for a 7pm table, I happily settled in at the bar. The decor inside was again understated, warm and casual. The ethos of a back-room cantina floated around the place. After a glass of red wine (or a bottle of Dos Equis) and some chilli-roasted pumpkin seeds, I reach hopefully for the menu. Bar snacks abound - one could easily come in just for the bar food and the excellent selection of drinks. But the table calls.

The menu consists of starters (which can also be sides, and can also be shared), main courses (which can also be shared) accompanied by refried beans, tortillas and cabbage salad, and sides (which can also be starters).

What struck me first was the wholesome nature of the food - no heavy Cheddar cheese or sour cream in sight. Our starters were lightly-fried whitebait, fresh young goats cheese and an amazing broad bean, tomato, onion and cilantro salad, plus the house salsas (one green, one red), some of which we saved for our main courses.

The main courses were equally wholesome, with six options: pork, lamb, beef, chicken, fish and vegetable, each with a Jaliscan twist. My husband chose the pork option - which was in fact pork belly, ribs and crackling. I chose the vegetable option - roasted carrots, courgettes, chickpea, tomato and corn. These we dived into with gusto along with the refried beans, salsa and tortillas, amicably sharing our dishes. As I ate I had the sense of the authentic and the seasonal as well. Cabbage, carrots and courgettes are not thought of as Mexican ingredients, but they are humble and hearty, as is the cuisine. I'd happily trade for them over iceberg lettuce and bell peppers most days, though perhaps not at the tail end of summer.

By desserts we were slightly giddy, what with full bellies of proper food and mouth-watering flavours. We skipped the doughnuts dipped in chocolates,opting instead for coffees, though one came with a twist. It was a cold tequila chocolate coffee, which we chose partly out of incredulity at the prospect. Served simply in a margarita glass, the foamy result was complex, but so light, and so amazing. The tequila, so subtle, allowed the coffee and chocolate foam to lightly hold the tongue.

I think you get my drift. If not, in a nutshell, the meal was exquisite, though never presumptuous. Nor was it cheap - drinks, starters, mains, a couple sides,and coffees for 2 came in at a special-occasion £80. But I will go again, that much is for sure. Taco night at home - be scared, be very scared.

Green and Red, Bethnal Green Road, E1 6LA. Tel: 0207 749 9670