in season: wild mushrooms

On Friday afternoon, I couldn't resist popping by Borough Market before heading home to pick up a few wild mushrooms. As I greedily piled mushrooms into my paper bag, the man next to me smiled. "We're spoilt for choice," he said.

It was very true. Long, thin chinese mushrooms; thick, coarse mushrooms that looked like rocks; deep, dark pungent ones with chocolated-coloured heads. I couldn't stop myself. Though when I got to the till, my pickings totalled a tenner, so I relented and put a few back.

It turns out, I didn't need them all - they grew in fragrance, perfuming my entire flat until Saturday night, when I made the loveliest wild mushroom risotto.

I truly believe risotto is a weekend dish, and one best done at home. It needs time, patience and care and it certainly cannot be rushed (or you'll be forced to eat dense grains). It does not need cream either.

My version is the healthiest one I've come across, and (if I may say so) it tastes amazing.

(serves 2)
300 g wild mushrooms, broken into small pieces
100 g plain mushrooms (button or chestnut), sliced
1 large onion, sliced
1 clove of garlic, sliced
150 g arborio risotto rice
25 ml olive oil
1 litre of hot chicken or vegetable stock
175 ml white wine
a handful of parsley, chopped
4 tbsp (about 60 g) parmesan
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in large saute pan or pot. Add the onions and saute and allow to soften over medium heat. After about 5 minutes add the garlic.

After 5 more minutes, add the rice and stir so that the grains are coated in what's left of the oil. Increase the heat to about medium high. Saute for about two minutes

Add the white wine to the pan, and it should boil and bubble off. Begin to add the stock, a little bit at a time, just enough so that the rice is barely covered. Stir constantly.

Continue to do this until all the stock is gone. The process will likely take about 30 minutes.

After about 20 minutes, heat a few sprays of olive oil in small pan and add the mushrooms. Saute over low heat for about 8-10 minutes. Add water in small splashes should the mushrooms look dry.

After 30 minutes is up, add the mushrooms and mix through. Taste a grain of the rice to ensure it is soft enough. If it isn't, make up more stock (or use water) and continue until the grains are soft.

When they are soft enough, remove the risotto from the heat. Season well, and stir in the parsley and 3 tbsp of parmesan and cover the pot. Allow it to sit for about 5 minutes.

Serve the risotto in shallow bowls. Sprinkle the last bit of parmesan on top with some freshly-ground black pepper.

The only problem with this dish is how quickly it goes, and how much you'll want more! One serving is about 600 calories, so it's really not too bad at all, especially for a weekend dinner. The flavour of the pungent mushrooms are absolutely mind-boggling. So earthy - it's fantastic to think about how thousands and thousands of years ago our ancestors were foraging for these little treats.