a little bit of sole

On the menu tonight is a lovely flatfish called lemon sole, thus named for it’s lemon shape, round in the middle and tapered at the ends. For ages I thought the difference between it and Dover sole was an actual lemon flavour, one that I had convinced myself that I tasted. Looking back, it’s likely that I did taste it, if only because it’s traditional to squeeze a lemon wedge over the top, either before cooking or serving (or both).

In any case, I really enjoy eating it, especially whole, on the bone, though it’s expensive, and more likely to be a treat at a restaurant. At home, the humbler lemon sole fillet shall be prepared – likely, no doubt, with just a squeeze of lemon. It’s a fleshier fish than plaice (also known as flounder), but not as meaty as monkish or halibut (two excellent species of fish).

With this fish, I find that simple is best, and that goes for its accompaniments as well, so tonight I’m using the classic winter vegetable sides of steamed Chantenay carrots (still only 99p in Sainsbury’s – so get them while they’re hot) and purple sprouting broccoli. And for a bit of a twist, I’ll roast whole beetroots. But I think I need something savoury to cut through the sweetness of the carrot and the beetroot. Something that goes well with lemon.

Capers will do nicely – I love how they await their performances so patiently, sitting calmly in their brine in the back of the top shelf of the fridge. A little olive oil and seasoning will bring these little babies to life. And bring some soul to my sole. (Sorry, I couldn't resist)