a late spring classic

I cooked for three on Sunday evening. A friend, visiting from Canada, was popping over for an early evening meal. Normally, I roast a chicken, but it almost seemed too heavy. Something lighter – maybe salmon – I thought.

What I love most about salmon is the way it fills you up. It’s pretty high on the satiety index. And when you get a good cut, it just needs straightforward treatment and high-quality vegetables. I added Hollandaise Sauce in as a special treat – and did it without using butter. The results are tasty, and not nearly as heavy as when made with butter. The result was light and foamy. A perfect accompaniment to the produce.

Foil-baked salmon with Jersey royals, asparagus and Hollandaise sauce
(serves 3)

3 good-quality salmon fillets, between 100-150 g each
3 lemon wedges
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 splashes of white wine
fresh thyme
3 foil sheets
6 sprays of olive oil

500 g Jersey royals, cleaned and scrubbed
500 g asparagus, cleaned, with any chunky ends peeled off

6 tablespoons of olive oil spread
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp hot water
a dash of Tabasco
2 medium egg yolks

Preheat the oven to 180 C. Prepare the salmon packets by spraying the foil, placing the salmon in the centre, and seasoning with salt and pepper. Squeeze a lemon wedge over top of the salmon, and leave the wedge on top. Sprinkle fresh thyme leaves over the top, and add a splash of white wine. Fold up the foil packets, ensuring that there’s enough space for the salmon to steam within, while no gaps will allow the air out.

Place the salmon on a baking tray – or even on the rack. Then, place the cleaned Jersey Royals over a steamer filled with boiling water over medium heat. Both the salmon and the potatoes will need 20 minutes to cook.

With about 6 minutes left to go, add the asparagus to a second tier of the steamer.

Now make the hollandaise sauce. Melt the olive oil spread to a shimmering foam, though don’t let it brown. Meanwhile, whisk together the egg yolks, lemon juice, hot water, and Tabasco. Add the butter little by little, whisking furiously. Pour the mixture back into the pan you melted the butter with, and place over the slightest of heats. Continue whisking – and if it appears to separate, use a hand blender to bring to a foam (you may want to do this anyway.) Serve immediately in a boat alongside the salmon (removed from the foil), the potatoes and the asparagus.

Calories (for 150g salmon, 150g potatoes, 7 spears of asparagus, and ¼ of the Hollandaise): 490

For hungry eaters, making more potatoes is always a filling option. And a glass of white wine wouldn’t go unappreciated here! Fresh strawberries for dessert, perhaps? Or the first of the Kentish raspberries? You decide.